2013 annual report

We're already two weeks into the new year, but I feel I haven't finished 2013 yet. So much happened. So many new experiences. Crossing new borders, meeting thousands of people, feeling welcome in the most inhospitable places, being helped by people that could only be described as vagabonds and robbers in our civilized definitions.

Tears in my eyes when I spent a week with the Syrian refugees in Jordan. Excitement when a grizzly came up really, really close in the wet forests of BC, Canada. Joy and sheer fun, driving an old Volvo all the way from Amsterdam to Dakar, Senegal for charity.

I spent 4 months in Namibia, travelling to the most remote places together with Dutch guests that would hop on the 4WD for a week or 10 days. Trips full of adventure and surprises, overcoming our fears, tackling technical challenges, sleeping like babies..

The first weeks of the new year I spend a lot of time just enjoying all my memories. So I am sharing a few of them with you. Here's my annual report. In 10 images, or maybe 11. If you enjoy them, please share. Thanks!


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During our travels in Namibia we encountered loads of wildlife. Elephants, lions, cheeta's, giraffe, the whole thing. Snakes, scorpions and spiders too. Most of the times it was great, there were moments were it was a bit scary (remember that hyena coming to the fire Marc?). But this brown hyena was a sighting that really struck me. For the first time I could have a close up look at this magnificent and legendary animal. And understand how it is possible that they eat anything, including the thickest bones of their prey.


The fishing beach in Mauritania’s capital Nouakchott is one of the craziest places I've ever seen. While hundreds of fishermen have a hard time landing their boats in the rough surf, on shore these fishrunners are trying to get the merchandise loaded into fifty year old Peugeots as quickly as they can. They need to be fast, because hundreds of locals are doing everything they can to pocket one or two fishes themselves. They will even snatch 'm out of these baskets, attacking from the back!


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Namibia became fully independent from South Africa almost 25 years ago, but life on some of the white-owned farms still reminds very much of the days of apartheid, especially in the south. Many black workers' rights only exist on paper and they are living in the most basic conditions.


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Nikolaus Hakusembe (64) proudly points out one of his former church choir members that made it to governor in Namibia. When asked about the little blue crosses Hakusembe, the vicar of the Dutch Reformed church in Takwasa in Northeastern Namibia, explains those are the choir members who have already died. HIV is a major problem in Namibia, even more so in the North, where over 35% of the population is infected.</span>


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Meeting the himba people in the remote Kaokoveld was the most impressive part of my journey. I can only talk in superlatives to describe what I felt here. Himba are an incredibly beautiful, tough, proud, strong, straightforward and happy bunch of people. The inevitable conclusion I had to draw is that the less pampered your life is, the more happy you can become!

I photographed this beautiful girl in Orupembe. Due to the worst drought in decades practically all Himba left Orupembe in 2013; at the end of the year only a handful of people resided here. In better times the village may have 400+ inhabitants.


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2 year old Jason lives with his grandmother Theresia Swartbooi (43) in a corrugated iron shed on the Huns farm where his grandfather Timothias (54) works, in a remote location close to the Fish River Canyon. Lovely people that literally didn't even have salt to put in their porridge. Another moment where I felt how love can give so much that money can't buy.


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Mundo Resink was one of my first guests in Namibia. He is taking his daily shower here, early morning on the Gainas plains. Want to know how remote a place like that is? Check out Google maps: this where I shot the image.

Having guests joining me was such a nice way of exploring remote places like this. So THANKS Richard Zweekhorst, Daphne Prieckaerts, Pieter Hemels, Jeroen Hemels, Mundo Resink, Bert-Jan ter Hofte, Jeroen Stolting, Erik Hoekstra, Godelieve Janssen, Annemarie Vd Toorn and Marc Knip!

God, this is travelling the way it's supposed to be! 'The most pure, powerful and intense experience of my life', as one guest put it. So I decided to set up another expedition in 2014: http://thijsheslenfeld.com/join/


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It took us almost three weeks, but then again, we didn't do it the easy way. In February I joined the Amsterdam-Dakar Challenge. Driving an old car of 500 Euros max all the way deep into Africa was the challenge. Our Volvo performed great and Gerard Reddingius and I had a great time. The image was taken in Mauritania, the most dangerous part of the trip due to terrorist threats (the reason that the Paris-Dakar is now held in South-America). This is an adventure I can recommend!


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I didn't know it could rain so much in August. But in British Columbia, Canada it can. I spent 10 days here and it felt like the rains never stopped. Still, BC's nature was as beautiful as ever. And I finally spotted my first grizzly bear. What a great animal!


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O yeah, I almost forgot, but in September I did the Transsiberia Express, all the way from Bejing to Moscow. Not my piece of cake, to be honest. It all went too fast and too organised. Nevertheless, I loved the two days we had in Mongolia and picked up some Russian culture. And found out that in Poetin's Russia the old habit of having children march at the monument for the unknown soldier is re-established. That's where I took this portrait. In Jekaterinenburg. Or was it Irkutsk? I really can't remember...


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Leon Coenraad van Wijk portrayed in his farm in a remote location in the Groot Karasberge, in the South of Namibia.

Namibia became fully independent from South Africa almost 25 years ago, but life on some of the white-owned farms still reminds very much of the days of apartheid.

The hunting trophy's from Leon's grandfather certainly add to that atmosphere.


a girl and a poem

It’s over three weeks since my return from Jordan, where I was reporting on Syrian refugees for Volkskrant, De Correspondent, Parool and Nieuwe Revu. In the meantime I already spent a week in BC, Canada. But the images and memories from Jordan are still in my head and my heart. So I have to tell you something.

Za'atari refugee camp was like a tornado of emotions and feelings. I met hundreds of people, had stones thrown at my head, ate sumptuous meals in illegal restaurants, found some great new friends and was awed by the enormous resilience of the 140.000 refugees here... Each and every encounter was impressive and intense. But some of them were even more than that. Meeting Safa'a was a moment I’ll never forget.

Together with reporter Rinke Verkerk I spent one day photographing  the children in the camp for a report in Dutch daily Het Parool . Safa'a was one of the children we met - just randomly, somewhere in the camp. And whenever I think back of that encounter, I get tears in my eyes. Boy, did she touch me…

Here's what happened. 

The conversation Rinke had with Safa'a was not really smooth. Short answers, silences. Safa'a was a little uncomfortable. Rinke asked her a few questions about school. What is your favorite subject? 'Arabic,' Safa'a replied. Do you also write, Rinke asked. ‘Yes,’ she replied. So what do you write? ‘Poems,’ said Safa'a. Rinke was surprised. ‘How nice! Would you know one by heart? No, that was asking too much. But then Safa’a took a little piece of paper out of her pocket, and began to read. 

Calm down, wait, calm down
Because we are far away from home

Send my peace and my love
To our country, where we grew up

Send the birds in our country my greetings
Because they will sing when we get home

Greet our lemon trees, greet my family
Who raised me, sang to me, taught me life

My mother can still smell the scent of her bed at home
Greet my neighbors, my beloved

Salute all the brave people, bow down to our last strength

Which we give collectively for our country

It was an incredible moment. Safa’a really concentrated on doing well while reading her text, so I guess she hasn’t seen my tears. Or maybe she did. It doesn’t really matter.

What does matter is that her poem - along with the stories of other children - was published this Saturday in Het Parool (check out the article here ). And now - because of this publication - her poem will be part of the Tribute to Peace concert from Dutch popstar Trijntje Oosterhuis,  this Sunday in the garden of the Peace Palace . A fancy operation, together with the Hague Philharmonic. UNICEF also contacted me; they picked up the story and want to share it. Just how nice is that?

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heading for the syrian border

Dutch daily Het Parool called me with a question: 'Do you want to go to Zataari, one of the biggest camps for Syrian refugees in Jordan, to photograph the children there?' Didn't have to think long: sure!

Turned out there is a Dutch group called Syrious Mission (I like the name)  that sends out musicians to the camps; they sing and make music with the kids for a week and end the visit with a concert in which the children themselves perform. Now that sounds nice.

One small problem:  there is (obviously) no money for tickets and local expenses. So I kickstarted a fundraising campaign on both Twitter and FB. And within a few hours the phone rang. Pieter Hemels, director of Hemels van der Hart, showed me what friends are for and offered to pay the bill.

Thanks Pieter! Good to know that even in these times there are entrepreneurs who dare to let their heart speak.

I'm off tomorrow, together with reporter Rinke Verkerk, to produce features for Het Parool, Volkskrant, De Correspondent and Nieuwe Revu.

I'm sure it won't be easy. As one of my friends on FB suggested: 'It will be challenging to find a balance between empathy and switching your feelings off.'

I'm afraid he's right. But that is also exactly the reason I want to do this. More soon.

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less is more

Less is more, and that certainly applies to travel photography. Looking at tourists taking pictures, you will always see people taking a step backwards – just to get that beautiful church or that interesting tree on the image as well. I think the secret is to do exactly the opposite: skip the church and the tree and focus on what the image is really about: take a step forward. You might even want to take another step: close ups that only show a detail can sometimes tell so much more about a place than the whole thing.

While on a long trip to the Antarctic I visited quite a few penguin rookery’s, and shot many images with loads of penguins together. But one morning, on yet another beach loaded with king penguins on South Georgia, I sat down for about half an hour to see if that would lead to different results. This little fellow came really close because he was so curious. And I almost automatically shot this image of his feet. Only later, after the trip, I began to realise that this image, with not even half the bird on it, was in fact the most powerful penguin-image I had taken!

look!

Even as a kid, I didn't like zoo's. Well I did, but only if I had the feeling the animal I was looking at was not terribly unhappy. The electric eel, the spiders and the meerkats - those were all fine. But the lions and the polarbears - I could only feel sorry for them, and I still do. Actually I haven't been to a zoo for years.

Maybe that's why this image really struck me. What a great idea to turn the whole thing upside down! I'm not really sure that this what they had in mind when they started feeding lions from this truck in Orana Wildlife Park in New Zealand. But maybe the people on board give it a thought. Being inside a cage sucks! Especially if you don't have the key and the guys outside do...

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life is easy

...if only you can stick to this little scheme ;-)

Work, pleasure, money - for years these subjects and especially their relation have kept me busy. I made lots of money doing things I was very good at but didn't really like, I made no money at all doing things I did like but wasn't very good at, etc etc..

Now I am making good money doing the things I really want to do. And when I found this pure and simple overview, it all came together. In the end it's pretty simple or? Thanks Bud Caddell!

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the best advice: don’t prepare yourself!

Professional photographers may emphasize how important it is to prepare yourself thoroughly on your destination. That’s not what I do. In fact, most of the times I enter a new city or country without any preparation at all! But as soon as the plane touches ground, I start my research. I look, touch, feel, sniff & taste everything, and I talk with a lot of people. That usually helps me to get an idea of what’s going on somewhere pretty quickly.

If a guide tells me we really have to go somewhere ‘because all photographers do’, for me that’s a good reason not to go there. If the cab driver tells me a specific area is very attractive for tourists, I tell him to head the other way. And if I find a location or an area that I like, I don’t mind skipping all my plans for the rest of the day, just to stay there.

While on assignment in Lima, Peru I was driving through the endless slums of this huge city, when a peculiar tent, built from an old parachute, caught my attention. It turned out to be a tiny little circus, run by a family of less than ten persons. The setting was as beautiful as the people were. In just an hour I shot some of the most amazing portraits. And all this on a location where no serious guide would ever, ever have taken me. That – to me – is what photography is all about!

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memoirs of a geezer..

Nice one. Mundo Resink, one of the participants on my recent Namibia-trip where I had one new guest bushcamping with me every week, wrote a blog on his experience. Not the average travel blog though. We may have travelled through one of the wildest and loneliest places on earth; Mundo focuses on the inner journey he made. Quite a journey too:  Memoirs of a geezer   

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namibia 2013 - part 1 is over!

Yesterday I landed in Frankfurt, after an amazing journey through Namibia. More than two months with a well-equipped four wheel drive bush camper criss-cross through this beautiful, deserted country. Sleeping in unique places, views to remember forever, encounters and personal stories to take in, which all left an indelible impression. So much beauty, simplicity and purity cannot leave anyone indifferent.

Along the way I would continue to pick up new guests from the Netherlands, who would travel along for a day or 10, quite a change from my usual mode of travel. A wonderful way to share this journey. Not only because together you see a lot more, but every person experiences things differently. This effect was further enhanced by these special surroundings, being in the middle of nowhere, without all the usual distractions, the crowds, the noise, all that we take for granted at home.

Every day a new discovery. No idea where we would sleep, who or what we would encounter. Cooking our meals on te campfire, shitting in the bush, no network access. Every day would bring questions that we had to answer ourselves. Can you actually go to sleep if 30 elephants are circling around the car? How do you bake bread in a cast iron pan? Is this guy to be trusted? Are lions really afraid of fire or is it suicide to sit here with a glass of Chardonnay? Can we drive on these salt flats or will the car get stuck?

I’m filled with these feelings and I want to share my impressions, here and now. Without the explanation and interpretation that it might need. Because right now I cannot put all in words yet.

Here's what I experienced with Richard Zweekhorst, Daphne Prieckaerts, Peter and Jeroen Hemels, Mundo Resink and Jeroen Stolting. Thanks for your companionship, friendship and trust!

If this story touches you, share this album on FB, or anywhere else. And in November and December I will be traveling again, for part two of this wonderful project. Early next year it will all be in book form.

You want to join me for an unforgettable journey? There are still two places available: one is early November, the other one halfway december. Drop me a note if you're interested!

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heartworkers

Cool! The guys at heartworkers make short docs about people who do the things they love, and make a living out of it. They gave me the opportunity to share my thoughts in this 3 minute movie. Just how nice is that?

'men at work' on display again

'Men at work' is on display again, this time in Rome and Bussum, The Netherlands. The complete exhibition opened this week in Dutch theatre Spant! in Bussum. Open daily, lasts till December 31st. From September 20th the book that I published with the exhibition will be part of  the 11th Festival Internazionale di Roma. 'Men at work' will be on display in the Contemporary Art Museum MACRO as part of an exhibition curated by Douglas Stockdale. Read his earlier review of the book here.

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yes! red dot for 'men at work'

With more than 14,000 entries from over 70 countries the red dot design award is the world’s largest design competition. Only those are honoured who can hold their own with the star-studded jury – in their field, with their ideas. And I am more than happy to announce that my book 'Men at work' won a red dot 2012 for communication design!

The award will be handed out during a gala in Berlin on October 24th. With this award 'Men at work' is in good company: earlier winners of the red dot for product design include the Porsche 911 and the Apple MacBook Pro.

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new book and exhibition

With the opening of a solo-exhibition in Amsterdam's Melkweg Gallery on February 29th and the launch of a new book I will celebrate my longterm project 'Men at work', for which I photographed for almost 20 years. 'Men at work' portrays men from all over the world in their working place. (Go to this gallery to see images from the series, or check out a preview (PDF) of the book here)

The question raised by each of these images: is a man’s identity based on his work, or is his work based on his identity? It is up to the viewer to answer that question. For myself, I see a clear connection between the (socio-)geographic location where I take a picture and the role that work plays in the lives of men. In the wealthy, capitalist Western world, men seem to identify strongly with their work: they are what they do. In less advanced countries, this is often quite different. Here it works the other way around: people tend to do work that suits them.

The book is published by Oost West Thijs Best, text is in English. Order here. The exhibition in De Melkweg lasts till April 1st.

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au!

'Au!' is the title of my new photo book on Suriname. Today film director Jean van de Velde received the first copy of the book during a presentation in Amsterdam.

To shoot for this new book I spent 3 months in Suriname's jungle. The book documents the lives of the people that live in this vast piece of Amazon rainforest. Click here for an extended preview.

To celebrate the publication of this new book there will be an exhibition of Thijs' Surinam images in Pakhuis De Zwijger in Amsterdam during the whole month of November.

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'hot' voted best travel photobook of 2009

The nomination was already there, but now it's official. The Dutch association of travel book shops voted 'Hot - Life in the Australian outback' the best Dutch photo book of 2009! Here's what the jury had to say:

'Thijs Heslenfeld is one of the best Dutch travel photographers. In this book about his much-loved Australia, he strikes exactly the right note to make the outback sing. Heslenfeld says that he wants to show life in the outback - nothing more, nothing less. But that, obviously, is an understatement. Not everyone can perceive the beauty in desiccated carcasses in red sand, a pile of tyres in the desert, some tools in a dusty shed.

Whilst there is, of course, a lot of outback in this book, there is a lot of Heslenfeld too. His sense of rhythm, patterns and eye for very subtle shades makes it a very personal book. Details of feathers, the gentle green tones of broken bottles and even a picture of a road train that rumbles past him imbue a soft sheen.

Truly an exceptionally beautiful photo book.'

interview shots! magazine

 Shots Magazine published an interview with Thijs Heslenfeld in their last issue. Shots is one of the world's most authoritative magazines on advertising and photography, published in the UK. read the interview (PDF, 1 Mb)